2004 Vigneti delle Dolomiti IGT Granato, Trentino, Italy

Clear, firm, slightly smoky aroma of ripe black and blue berries with a hint of herbs and dark ethereal spice, a hint of bacon and roasted nuances. Ripe, quite juicy dark fruit with slightly roasted and restrained chocolaty spice, hazelnut, pepper, a little juniper and Mediterranean herbs, persistent and dense on the palate, ripe, fine sandy tannin, deep, complex and with power, minty in the background, good depth, quite complex, still has tension, smoky nuances, very good, firm, juicy, grippy and spicy finish with salt and again ethereal notes. Absolutely first-class and still ageless, perhaps even better than ever.

Best to drink: Bis 2028+. What our ratings mean