2013 Gattinara DOCG Riserva, Piedmont, Italy

Firm and deep, nutty, dried vegetable to tobacco, very slightly bacony and iodine scent of red and hinted black berries with a little wilted foliage, leather, tree bark, pepper and dried mushrooms. Clear, tart and almost cool, restrained fruit with tobacco, spicy and undergrowth notes, peppery and mushroom aromas again, a little liquorice and juniper, persistent and firm on the palate, present, fine tannin, some bite, in the background clear, salty minerality, still rather young, a hint of dark chocolate, cardamom and coffee, herbal nuances, very good, firm, juicy and spicy finish

Best to drink: Bis 2028+. What our ratings mean