1999 Brunello di Montalcino DOCG Riserva, Tuscany, Italy

On opening, the wine presents a mature nose with lovage, malt, some coffee, delicate vegetal notes and dried red berries. Becomes fresher and more youthful with aeration, and shows off what good grape quality, minerality and careful work in the cellar can achieve. Medium-bodied fruit with surprisingly good depth, quite complex, cool, spicy mineral notes provide the perfect accompaniment, in addition there are ripe, mature, integrated tannins, light mineral notes on a long, complex, filigree finish. Not a spectacular blockbuster, but its traditional style and careful vinification provide drinking enjoyment at the highest level.

Best to drink: Bis 2010. What our ratings mean