1995 D.O.Ca Rioja Gran Reserva 890, La Rioja, Spain

Very deep nose, restrained berry and plum fruit, tart earthy and mineral notes, vegetal notes and tobacco, cedary traces. Fairly mature on the palate, concentrated, still incredibly juicy, spicy fruit, sugar candy, cedar wood, iodine, spices and dried herbs, prominent earthy and salty mineral notes, mature, fine sandy tannins, tremendous persistence and depth, tobacco, loads of herbal salt, gripping, very long finish. Great in an uncompromisingly traditional style. Needs aeration, becomes fresher and more beguiling for a long time after opening.

Best to drink: Bis 2022+. What our ratings mean