1998 Côtes du Rhone AOC Domaine les Hautes Cances, Rhône, France

Clearly mature nose, with malt, dried flowers, dried prunes and preserved berry purée, sweetish spice and provencale herbs. Very mature, too, on the palate, malt, lovage and slightly astringent tannins, a shade of pale fruit, vegetal notes (celery), attractive finish.

Best to drink: Austrinken. What our ratings mean