1999 Dernau Pfarrwingert Spätburgunder Auslese trocken, Ahr, Germany

Fairly deep ruby to garnet red, lighter at the rim. Relatively cool, restrained aroma of canned plums and cherries with a mild roasted wood spice. Concentrated, juicy fruit with lots of sweet wood notes, quite fine, just very slightly grainy tannins, aromas of prunes and overripe dark fruits, some pencil-lead on the palate, mineral notes in the background, tremendous presence and persistence. Aromas reminiscent of mixed fruits steeped in rum, big body with apparent high alcohol, long, sweet, fruity finish with spicy oak notes.

Best to drink: Up to 2006. What our ratings mean